I loved Khorog, I spent most of my time in Khorog whilst I was in Tajikistan. It is the capital of the Gorno-Badakhshan region and lies at a friendly 2100m. My head could feel the lessening pressure that had built up from the soaring heights of Murgab and my fingers began to regain some feeling after a few days at this altitude. I had no idea how close Khorog is to Afghanistan until I looked at the map. As a result of the Anglo-Russian-Afghan Border Treaty of 1896 the norther border of Afghanistan along the Pyanj river was demarcated. The Gunt river divides the city nestled among the peaks of the valley. Khorog felt like a metropolis compared to the likes of Murgab and Jelandy. I was happy to be in a relatively busy but small town which bustled during the day.
You can’t help but pick up on how prominent the Aga Khan is in this part of the world. Most Pamiris are Ismailis and follow the teachings of the Aga Khan. Every house, shop or restaurant has a portrait of the man who has done some incredible and life changing work to try transform the impoverished GBAO region. There is a modern and beautiful university campus of the University of Central Asia which helps to educate both female and male students at a tertiary level. Some of the brightest and most educated people of the Central Asian region reside here. The students seem to speak pretty decent English and enjoy the campus facilities like accessing the internet. (There’s also an internet cafe in the city center near the post office, which sometimes works but mostly in offline). I asked two young students to help me out and try find the Pamir Lodge and they went out of their way to walk me to it.
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